Ferris Sweep Build Guide
Parts used to build the Ferris Sweep in this Build Guide
|Ferris Sweep PCB||2 sets||PCBs are reversible on kriscables.com This means you can choose any of them for left/right when starting the build|
|Kailh Hotswap Sockets||34||Only MX sockets are supported on kriscables.com|
|Low Profile Case||1 set|
|Mounting hardware||For Acrylic Base + Acrylic Switch Plates: 8x 6mm Standoffs and 16x 5mm Screws|
|USB-C Pro Micro Controllers||2||Also can be used: Pro Micro (micro usb), Elite-C, Nice!Nano etc|
|Controller Low Profile Sockets||2 sets||Optional, but strongly recommended to have them to hotswap easily any time|
|Mill Max Socket Pins||2 sets||Needed for controllers hotswap. In 2 sets come 24 + 24 Pins enough for 2 controllers|
|USB-C cable||1||or Micro USB cable (depending on the chosen controller)|
Note: This is a resumed Ferris Sweep Build Guide and a WIP (work in progress).
Start with the one half and only after completing all the steps proceed to the another half PCB. On this guide i started with the left half.
⚠️ Don’t connect or disconnect the TRRS cable when one side of your split keyboard is powered. It may short out and fry the microcontroller. Always disconnect the USB cable first.
⚠️ Be gentle with microcontrollers‘ USB ports. They are easy to break.
⚠️ Before inserting the switches into the PCB’s hotswap sockets make sure the switch’s legs aren’t bend. The insertion should go smoothly with very little resistance. If it is not – don’t force it to get in, check what’s wrong and adjust the insertion.
HOW TO FLASH CONTROLLERS GUIDE
1) Flash the controllers with the keymap before soldering them to the board. Here is the default Ferris Sweep keymap. Here is the .hex file if you don’t want to to create QMK environment and just want to flash using QMK Toolbox: download .hex
SOLDER HOTSWAP SWITCH SOCKETS
2) Since Ferris Sweep doesn’t use diodes we can proceed to solder the kailh hotswap sockets.
💡 On the PCB tin one socket pad first. After that, holding gently the socket down with the tweezers – solder the corresponding side. With a bit more solder than usual on the tip – solder down the other side to the pad on PCB.
BRIDGE THE JUMPER PADS
3) On the same side of the PCB you chose to solder the kailh sockets, as on the PCB also says, on the controller’s footprint solder the jumper pads.
💡 Clean always the tip before soldering each pad to avoid getting shorts, also avoid putting too much solder, but not enough solder won’t short and close both pads properly, so getting this step right is crucial.
4) All the work on the bottom side at this point is done. Flip the PCB.
On the top side solder the controller hotswap sockets.
INSERT MILL MAX PINS
5) Insert all the way into the controller sockets the 12+12 Mill Max Socket Pins
6) Insert into the pins the controller facing it’s SMT components down, as suggested on the PCB
SOLDER MILL MAX PINS TO THE CONTROLLER
7) Solder the pins to the controller. Now you have a hotswappable controller on the left side.
SOLDER TRRS/POWER SWITCH
8) Solder the TRRS and the Power Switch (also both on this top side).
💡 Solder the Power Switch if you plan to use the Ferris Sweep in the future with Nice!Nano + Li-Po battery wirelessly, if not then no need to solder the power switch.
FINAL TEST OF THE PCB
9) Use tweezers to short kailh sockets or insert switches into the board and test the PCB. If everything works repeat the same steps on the Right Side.
💡 Check always which half you are working on and which side the components go.
⚠️ Please be careful when inserting the switches into the PCB. Make sure Switch Legs are not bended and are aligned with socket holes. Don’t force it to enter, otherwise you risk to end up with a broken socket like on the photo below. It should get in smoothly with almost no resistance.
MOUNT THE PLATES
10) Mount the case, insert the rest of the switches and add some keycaps. Done ! 🥳🎉